HELP! Buyin premix in this dam city

[sask rider]

My stash of dominator ran out. and im rdy to try sumthin new for premix. Nobody in this city carries hp2 do they? how bout 2R? does the honda powersports place sell any honda oils?
thanks guys

[Badvinny]

Lomg ago during my 35+ years of racing 2 strokes I became a Castrol dealer. I havent been one for 20 years but after trying everything else I have resigned to the fact that castrol 2stroke is the only oil for my jetski's and race bikes. It is also cheap and easy to find (boat, skidoo, and super2stroke are all the same BTW!)

[sask rider]

r u talkin castrol rs tts? where can u find it

[Badvinny]

Not synthetic, I got tired of paying for that real quick. Castrol Super TT, or Super Snowmobile, or Super Outboard, all available at Canadian Tire and cheeeeep, even sold in 4 liter jugs (I love big jugs!). I mix at 40;1 for our KTM 2stroke and for both jetskis, one ski is heavily modified and the KTM iceraces wide open all day long, over, and over.....

[TGSXR]

I'm gonna sort of hijack this thread... but its a premix related question.

Almost got my old-as-me RM250 fully rebuilt... and the service manual recommends 20:1, so when I see you running 40:1, it throws up a flag. Is there any major difference between older (water cooled yet) 2 strokes? Am I better off running it at 20? or ??

Thanks, I'm new to smokers.

[devin_558]

The difference is the quality of oil that they have now compared to back then. If you are going with a good synthetic premix oil 40:1 is lots of oil you could even push it a bit and go with 50:1. I mix my fresh rebuilds about 30:1 for the first tank just to ease the break in.

[snoopjonnyjon]

I don't like running cheap oil's in a bike with a power valve. They get carboned up from the cheap oil, and require far more frequent teardowns to clean the exhaust valve, even if the lubricity was adequate.

I run 50:1 Belray MC1 (from rec supply) in my KX500, but it is burning a LOT of fuel, so it is still getting a lot of oil into the engine. I was initially running cheap Belray S2 at 32:1, and was having a lot of issues with fouling plugs, and my power valve looked horribly carboned up. Since I was only getting about 40km per a tank of fuel, it was like I was burning half a liter of oil in the same distance. The crankcase was just loading up with oil all the time. Spooge everywhere. Switching to 50:1 MC1 cured everything. Runs like a top, has NEVER fouled a plug, and everything was super clean when I pulled it apart. However, on a 125 that isn't nearly as thirsty, you've got approximately the same main bearings, the same rod bearings, etc... but are burning way less fuel, so you need to run a higher ratio to get the same amount of oil into the engine. The smaller the engine, the more oil it needs. My R/C stuff is running 4:1 oil. Lots of people run 300hp Evinrude O/B at 100:1 or higher.

In my old Husqvarna 125 and Canam 250 air cooled bikes, I still run 15-20:1 conventional Castrol outboard oil.

[TGSXR]

Okay, so to sum it all up....

Old/cheaper oil: can gum up an exhaust valve, and should be run in the 20-30:1 range for my 250

New/synthetic oil: can be run upwards of 40-50:1

I guess the bottom line is run it initially at 20 for breakin, then see if I am fouling plugs and lighten it up from there?

[snoopjonnyjon]

You might find this an interesting article to read.

http://www.bridgestonemotorcycle.com/documents/oilpremix6.pdf

It was written in 1978, before the really modern synthetics came out, but very interesting anyways. And before anything had a power valve... or liquid cooling.

However, an old former pro-mx rider was telling me in response to this article:

"I raced my 1978 Husky 390 for its race season using 32:1 penzoil (mineral).  Numerous piston seizures and couple of blown rods was quite common over a long race season.  In 1979 I got a new 400 maico and this cool Belray MC-1 sythetic oil that recommended 85:1 on the bottle.  That season I got 52 pro races out of that engine, no seizures no blown rods, nada. On rebuild it was worn, but carbon free, intact and running.  I was hooked and have been a devout Belray fan ever since.  I would love to see that test applied to a modern engine and comparing castor to mineral to synthetic at say 20:1 40:1 60:1 and 100:1 to see what results they get.  Cam."

This is what kinda made me decide to try MC1 and I've had good luck with it. I figure why mess around trying other stuff when I've found something that works. Cam also runs 300:1 in his four stroke 450. He says the valve guides and seats have been lasting better. I've been considering running small amounts of two stroke oil in my four strokes as well.

[Badvinny]

I will throw in my 2 cents again also. I mentioned I have run Castrol 'cheap' oil for a million years now, and all my 2 strokes have been powervalved since 1986.
 Somewhere around 1994 I swapped some tools for a case of Belray MC1, used it all summer with no problems, but I never 'ever' have had a problem with gummy valves or any oil related problems. I did however get real tired of paying such a high price for synthetics so I switched back to Castrol and havent looked back. I mix my KTM's at 40:1 as required, no probs, have you seen how hard I am on those things at the icerace track cause its twice as hard than any dirt track.
 My Jetskis are 'seriously' modified in my opinion, full billet top end ($3300), freestyle porting & tons of other stuff, mixed at 40;1 also as recomended.
 I do run synthetics in all my 4 strokes and vehicles but still Casrol and when on sale only.
 Everyone always has an opinion in the 'oil' debate and we all are passionate about it usually, my choice is easy to find and cheap too, tx!

[sask rider]

ive always ran 32:1....i will never run any less oil.....

good quality oils if jetted right will never foul a plug or load up

i jet all my bikes accordingly and all run like tops

i found some hp2 at meidl honda...NICE..14 bucks for a pint (.473 l)

im not complainin